10 POINTS TO CONSIDER BEFORE OWNING A RABBIT
1. Rabbits do not make good pets for young children
2. Rabbits are not like cuddly toys and hate being handled
3. Children usually get bored with a pet rabbit within a month
4. Veterinary fees for rabbits are expensive
5. Rabbits can inflict a very nasty scratch or kick or bite
6. Rabbits need to be neutered
7. A rabbit’s hutch and run needs to be cleaned out regularly
8. Rabbits need annual vaccinations against VHD & Myxomatosis
9. Most rabbits do not make good companions for guinea pigs and often molest them
10. Rabbits dig holes in your lawn and will eat your plants.
PLEASE .........
Think twice before buying a rabbit as a pet
Do not breed from your rabbit
Never buy a rabbit as a present for someone else
If you can no longer care for your rabbit, take it to an animal shelter
Rabbits dumped in the wild will not survive.
SO YOU WANT A RABBIT?
ESSENTIAL ITEMS BASIC FACTS
hutch attached to run Life span: 6-8 years
good quality hay Maturity: about 3 months
wood chip Gestation: 31 days
good quality food
non-spill food dish
water bottle
Do not buy a rabbit unless it is from a reputable breeder or rescue centre. The rabbit must be over 8 weeks old. Until that age (and longer) he will still be feeding from his mother and you will stand a much better chance of having a healthy rabbit if he has been properly weaned. The breeder will be very experienced in the type of rabbit he breeds and should always be available for help and information. He will check the rabbit for such things as malocclusion of the teeth and any digestive problems. The rabbit’s eyes should be bright and he should be very inquisitive when you approach the cage.
HANDLING
Your new rabbits will be nervous when you first get them home, so it is important to let them settle in with as little handling as possible. Gradually build up their trust and confidence in you by talking quietly to them and gently stroking their heads if they approach you. When they have settled in, if you have to pick them up, then do it gently but firmly either by placing your hands around their middle or by holding the loose skin behind the ears with one hand while supporting the hind quarters with the other. Children under the age of 8yrs old should NEVER pick up a rabbit.
HUTCH OR HOUSE RABBIT ?
Rabbits can be hutched outside all year round in a good quality, weatherproof hutch with a separate draught-free sleeping area. It should be slightly raised off the ground. Hutch sizes should be a minimum of 4ft long x 2ft x 2ft; (large breeds should be a minimum of 6ft long by 2ft x 3ft.). Attached to an escape-proof plastic covered run (this is essential.) at least 6ft long to provide freedom day and night (wire netting under the run is a good idea to stop rabbits getting out and predators such as foxes, getting in).
BEDDING
Line the hutch with thick newspaper, a layer of woodchip on top, followed by a good layer of hay.
CLEANING OUT
It is best to remove soiled bedding daily and replace with fresh, thoroughly cleaning out the whole cage once a week. Rabbits hate damp conditions.
FEEDING
Feeding is probably the most important aspect of keeping bunnies. They are herbivores and in the wild will consume large quantities of fibrous plant material so Grass and Hay are the most important part of a rabbit’s diet plus a standard 5" bowlful of good quality rabbit mix. Do not allow your rabbit to eat selectively, make sure that he gets a well balanced diet and does not just eat the ‘nice’ bits ! He also needs fresh water daily. Many domestic rabbits and especially rabbits under the age of twelve weeks have a poor tolerance for large quantities of cabbage, greens etc. or excess of fruit, which can cause diarrhoea and in severe cases can cause death. Give adult rabbits fruit and vegetables in small quantities and check your rabbit’s bottom every day!! Never feed lettuce to a rabbit of any age. . It is essential for rabbits to have large quantities of fibre in their diet each day so you should ensure that your rabbit has access to fresh hay (and grass in the summer) every day of the year.
REMEMBER…….A FAT RABBIT IS AN UNHEALTHY RABBIT……
IS YOUR RABBIT LONELY ?
Yes, if not living with another rabbit. Rabbits living on their own is unnatural, but two dominant does or two dominant bucks may fight. An ideal pair is a castrated buck with a doe. Advice is essential with regard to bonding rabbits. Guinea pigs and rabbits do not make good hutch companions due mainly to different dietary needs. Additionally, adult rabbits can harass guinea pigs and cause them deep distress.
COMMON PROBLEMS
Overgrown claws - These will need to be clipped two or three times a year; contact your vet for advice
Overgrown teeth - Contact your vet for advice urgently
Red urine - with no other symptoms this is rarely a cause for concern, but if in doubt, contact your vet
Diarrhoea - Potentially fatal, contact your vet immediately
Fly-strike - rabbits soiled with droppings are at high risk from this condition - flies lay their eggs around the tail area of the rabbit, and the resulting maggots eat into its flesh with very distressing and often fatal consequences. Particularly common during the summer months, so check your rabbit daily
Dandruff and/or bare patches - often caused by a mite (Cheyletialla parasitivorax), causes skin irritation. Contact your vet.
Myxomatosis and VHD - see separate leaflets and contact your vet about vaccinations
Aggressive behaviour - this can be due to inexperienced handling, e.g. by young children or sudden grabbing at the animal. A castrated buck or spayed doe will become docile and much calmer - contact your vet about this operation.